Mini guide to…Jaipur, Rajasthan, India
Overview: Jaipur is the pink city — the beating heart of Rajasthan. Here, the history is rich, the colours bright and the noise and crush of life unavoidable. The population has sprawled out of the faded pink walls (painted for the visit of the Prince of Wales in the late 19th century) and the result is often streets jam-packed with a tooting mass of buses, tourist coaches, cars, rickshaws and camels. But just take a deep breath and throw yourself in. There are endless streets to wander, negotiating your way through hanging embroidered bedspreads and weaving cows. Then there are the sights that bring the crowds, many built over the centuries by the city’s maharajas (before they were abolished after the country won independence). Wander the serene and ornate courtyards of the City Palace (in a wing of which the still much-loved descendents of the royal family live); the 18th-century astronomical observation garden where the huge instruments throw spectacular shadows in the sunlight; and the Hawa Mahal or Palace of Winds — the intricate pink palace where the maharani, hidden from view, could watch processions on the busy streets below.
Where to stay: There are plenty of boutique hotels in Jaipur these days flourishing in romantic havelis (the homes of noble families) — some traditional and some not so. If you have money to spend try the Samode Haveli in the old town (which can feel a little far away from the action) or if you want to hang out with the backpackers and where a banana pancake is never far away, then the more modern MI Road is full of options.
Where to eat: Make sure you have your fill of the thalis (mounds of rice, dahl, curries, spinach or whatever else is in season), but then take afternoon tea at the Rambagh Palace hotel, where the gorgeous Gayatri Devi (the wife of the city’s last ruling maharaja) once lived. Just outside the hub of the city, here the lawns are vast and immaculately green, the tables among the pillars on the balcony cool and breezy and the flocks of birds gathering for the evening among the trees the only disturbance. The staff are extraordinarily polite, the Darjeeling tea comes in fine, patterned china and the sandwiches and scones are plentiful. Alternatively have a chilled glass of Indian hill white wine in the Polo Bar, where plates of nibbles are served and the city’s glamorous past is recalled with black and white photographs of polo matches.
Shop: Everywhere. In the heart of the city around the palace of winds you can hardly move for the shops. Stall upon stall of jutis (leather shoes) in every colour and style compete with textiles, carts piled high with marigolds, sweets, incense and gleaming brass pots. Then there are the warehouses filled with rugs, antiques, shawls and cotton tops of varying quality. Haggle hard. For intricate Mughal-style painting and authentic, though pricier, craftwork the City Palace contains a workshop where you can meet the artists.
Don’t miss: Amber Fort. Rearing up on a hillside beyond the walls of the city, the fort is spectacular. Take up the offer of one of the official guides — the history is fascinating and the warren of tunnels and staircases easier to navigate. Stand in the breeze on the highest ramparts and look down on the exquisite gardens, laid out like carpet, floating in the lake below.
Don’t bother: With the touristy elephant rides up to the fort. Get a taxi from the city to take you up the hair-raising bends of the road all the way to the entrance.
When to go/How to go: The best time is from October to about April. The days are sunny and the skies blue, though you’ll need a warm cardigan for the evenings around December. November is the prime time for weddings so expect the night time skies to be filled with fire works and the competing rhythms of music as parties get underway. By June it’s sweaty and hot — but if you can cope with being on your feet in 40C then you’ll be find. You can catch an internal flight from Delhi. But the best way to get to Jaipur is by rail — watch the world fly by outside and drink the onboard chai, the best you will find anywhere in India. If you’re driving the roads are hairy but the trail well worn. Stop on en route from Agra at Fatehpur Sikri, the abandoned capital of a Mughal Emperor.
By: Melissa van der Klugt, Occupation: journalist