A Taste of Valencia
It’s 3pm on Sunday and La Pepica’s waiters are up to their eyeballs, scurrying around serving every hungry Valenciano his favourite rice dish – we are here waiting for our traditional Valencian paella. I’ve had to wait all year for a decent one! Right on the beach, on the ‘Paseo Neptuno’ La Pepica is nostalgic, classic, old-school… and the best in Valencia at what they do. You guessed it, paella! It’s wonderful with its worn ceramic tiling, smart white tablecloths and the waiters, who have all been working at La Pepica their whole lives it seems. They’re super quick and efficient and have this effortless elegance. We’re in the outdoor terrace where it’s hard to bag a table at a weekend… but it’s so worth it. We’ll just relax here with our chilled wine wine and enjoy the sea views. www.lapepica.com
So aside from the joys of this region’s fabulous rice dishes which clearly draw me here, Valencia is like my second home and I come with my family every summer. I’m always rooting for the city when I’m abroad as I know many overlook Valencia as its sexy cousin “Barcelona” always steals the show. I’m of course partly biased being half Valencian (!) but also Barcelona just doesn’t WOW me. I did have an embarrassing fling with a really grungy Barcelonian guy…. so this could be part of the reason why I’m not crazy about the city – I really hope he doesn’t read this! Anyway, Valencia just combines everything you want of a small city – culture, history, amazing food and a good beach lined bars and restaurants.
In the evenings, I love nothing more than wandering the old town’s dimly lit ancient alleyways in the Barrio del Carmen. This bohemian area with an artsy vibe is found just behind the Plaza de La Virgen and the Plaza de la Reina. It is completely charming with its hidden corners and cute cafes – it’s the place to go for casual evening drinks and a bite to eat. You’re spoiled for choice as the winding cobbled streets are packed with popular bars with people spilling onto the streets and quaint squares. To kick off an evening here, head to La Pilareta in the Plaza del Tossal. A favourite among the locals, It’s a real landmark in Valencia and serves delicious fresh mussels. My mother remembers the days when you’d throw your mussel shells onto the floor (outside and inside) as you’d force yourself to the bar for more! It’s a bit more refined now but only just – and it still has that great sense of history. Later wander to La Plaza del Negrito for a jug of Valencia’s favourite drink – Agua de Valencia…or ‘Valencian Water’…. not so much water but more a dangerous concoction of cava, fresh orange juice and cointreau. Knock yourself out!
And here’s a tip for the day that not many people know about – head to the Mercado Central, absorb the colours and variety of food and don’t leave without buying some fresh seafood and vegetables. Take it all to the bar nearby called El Trocito Del Medio (just outside the market) and they’ll prepare you a feast with the produce you’ve bought!
El Barrio del Carmen
El Mercado Central
El Trocito Del Medio Bar - where you can take your produce and they'll cook it right there!
From the market to the plate!