Medieval Gem – Tallinn
I imagine Tallinn covered in snow would be like stepping into a Christmas card. We went in September and it was still postcard perfect then. The Old Town is so adorable with pastel coloured chocolate-box buildings and ridiculously cute, almost fake looking facades. Not to mention Rapunzel-like turrets dotted around the edge of city.
Adding to this, the locals have been savvy enough to pick up on the public’s fascination of their hometown’s undeniable cuteness and have added their own touch to make this even more of a medieval Disneyland experience…They parade around in medieval fancy dress – pointy leather boots and funny tunics are all too common in the historic centre.
To make our visit truly authentic, we stayed at the Schlossle Hotel, a boutique hotel nestled in The Old Town’s cobbled streets. The building dates back over 500 years and is sure to leave everyone awe-struck with its carefully restored interiors. It’s the kind of hotel you really want to enjoy so we spent most evenings coming back to the cigar room for a nightcap – in this cosy corner with exposed stone walls you can happily let time roll by.
The Schlossle Hotel, |
On our first night we went to this medieval-themed institution Olde Hansa, where I have to admit we had a lot of fun but I wouldn’t rave about the food. Actually sticking to starters is probably a good tip – they’re huge and you can order a varied selection to share. The mains however were overwhelmingly heavy and not exactly finger-licking good. It’s still definitely worth going for a real taste of the 13th century… staff seriously get into character!
Olde Hansa |
A really unexpected surprise…We all took a deep breath when we heard that we were being taken to a Spanish restaurant by our resident Estonian family. It was a sweet thought but very brave considering my mother is Spanish and surely it would be a let down? To our great surprise, ‘Alter Ego‘, was possibly the best Spanish restaurant I’ve been to in a while. The Catalan owner, married to a Tallinner, recently set up shop in this trendy square, just outside the Old Town, so if you’re prepared to venture out of the city walls for delicious food, this is THE PLACE. Tapas and main dishes were totally re-invented and it also has the stripped-down look of many London restaurants like Zuma. The portions were also very generous – no rip-off mini platters of chorizo slices. Anyway, GO, even something as simple as croquetas was an absolute delicacy!
wandering around town |
As a treat on our last night, we went to the Telegraaf Hotel for dinner. While the sleek design of this hotel didn’t really do it for me as a place to stay in Tallinn, (not absorbing the medieval theme and all), its renowned Russian restaurant, Tchaikovsky, offers the most exceptional food, in a beautiful setting, and of course, a peaceful piano and violin concerto accompaniment. London prices apply here!
A quick bite? Try the hole in the wall of the main Town Hall…. an unassuming little place that serves elk soup and the most incredible pasties ever, all in typical medieval style.
cosy medieval inn – Town Hall |
Where the hipster Tallinners go… try the funky seventies style Art cafe on Muurivahe street (near the Town Hall) for cheap and cheerful food, simple salads, soups, sandwiches … mains for less than £5 and all pretty good. I loved this place – it was surprisingly buzzing with locals in what is the heart of tourist-land Tallinn.
Art |
Two things not to be missed – Estonian History Museum, Great Guild Hall – a really interactive museum where my sister and I became completely hooked on a simulator, where a snapshot of you is superimposed on a video reconstruction of a time in history – take your pick and creepily feature in the Second World War, the Cold War or even the medieval times (of course, being the ongoing theme here).
My sister delivering post in the Second World War |
Marzipan fairytale book at the workshop’s display |
And finally stop by the Kalev Mazipan Museum Room, a tempting shop of marzipan figurines. Around the corner from here you’ll find the marzipan workshop where everyone can have their own masterclass in making and decorating marzipan sweets.