Oman… The Real Arabia

Relatively undiscovered, exotic, and unspoilt natural wonders – these were the main reasons why we chose to visit Oman. Completely different to its neighbouring Gulf states, tourism in this oil-rich country is only fairly new and this was noticeable from the moment we arrived… As the country seems to be subtly attracting upmarket, discerning travellers, things just aren’t geared towards mass tourism (fortunately) and as a result the Omanis were incredibly warm and welcoming. The only trouble was, that because it’s not completely on the tourist trail yet and it’s more suited to the ‘luxe’ tourist… it’s tricky to find advice on how ‘best’ to do Oman in just a few days (we had a week) and which sites we could easily combine in our day trips. We decided to be based in Muscat, staying at The Chedi, doing day trips from there.

Muscat – someone asked me if it was interesting… generally yes it’s interesting and pretty with its location right on the waterfront, but it lacks buzz and atmosphere even in the heart of Mutrah Souk. Also the city is quite widespread, so you need a car /taxi… unless you do what we did and walk in the blistering heat (in September….) – we practically melted onto the pavements. Muscat itself is a string of former coastal villages, now suburbs,  and these are connected with Old Muscat at the heart. I liked it because the buildings were low-rise and all white-washed (under the law, all villages have to wear this uniform!). As I said, being based at any of the hotels in Muscat, you really need a car to get around and I’d recommend renting one for the whole duration of your stay. The roads are impeccable and car rentals are cheap. LIke this you can have the flexibility to do day trips, pop into Muscat… etc..  the thing is, a taxi from the hotel each time you want to leave is minimum £10-£15 so it all adds up!

We only spent one day wandering around Muscat and this is all you really need. We woke up early one morning and went to the bustling fish market and then went to the nearby Mutrah Souk. This souk was great for its local perfumes and best of all were the cashmere scarves which were stunning and so decently priced (£25!). Although I’d read about this, we were still surprised to not be hassled at all, on the contrary, the locals were incredibly polite, and sellers couldn’t care less if you bought something from them or not. That was pleasant as  you could happily browse without feeling under pressure. From Mutrah we walked all the way to the old town, which was about 8km – I recommend driving in hot weather… we were exhausted.

Eating out in Muscat:

Mumtaz Mahal was my favourite – in fact it was the best Indian food I’ve ever had. We didn’t know this at the time but ‘Left Bank’, which is the best cocktail bar in town (according to an Omani prince I met recently – no joke) is on the ground floor of this restaurant so look out for it.

Even if you’re not staying at The Chedi, go here for dinner one night, that’s a real treat. They have an arabic outdoor lounge and two main restaurants to choose from. The look is minimalist, chic… and although pricey, it’s worth it.

Kargeen Cafe which is in a fairy-lit outdoor terrace had very good food and MASSIVE portions. The Shuwa, one of Oman’s traditional meat dishes, is  delicious.

Sites/Day Trips:

Nizwa Fort

The ancient city of Nizwa, is not to be missed.  It’s about a two hour drive from Muscat so rent a car and drive here. We made the mistake of hiring a guide which in hindsight wasn’t necessary (the roads are perfect) and it cost us an arm and a leg . Make sure you go on a Friday morning, arriving at the latest by 9am, so you can catch the weekly cattle market, which is more impressive than it sounds. It’s a complete time warp and isn’t dolled up for tourists at all. The locals get together in the market – a round space, where sellers lead their animals around, and interested buyers standing along the edges shout out their prices or simply observe. The animals we saw were cows, goats, camels….then when a deal is reached, cash is exchanged there and then and the animal is either led or scooped away. We found it fascinating as it just feels as though it hasn’t changed in hundreds of years, especially as all Omanis are in traditional dress – a crisp white or light coloured dishdasha and delicately embroidered hats… you’re brought back to the 21st century however when they whip out their most bling smart phones! A world of contrasts!! Later we visited Nizwa’s Fort – a stunning castle dating back to the 12th century. It’s so well preserved that walking around this treasure-trove feels like you’re on the Aladdin film set! From the top of the tower you can see Nizwa’s palm oasis stretching out for miles. We then wandered around the souks, shopping for frankincense and silver trinkets. As a symbol of hospitality, you’re offered in every shop Omani coffee which you should always accept. It’s rich and spiced, I actually liked it without being a real coffee lover.

***You can combine Nizwa with a visit to the mountains, Jebel Ahkdar, otherwise known as the Green Mountains or Jebel Shams which is Oman’s Grand Canyon. It’s also possible to combine Nizwa with a visit to Al Hoota Cave as it’s fairly close. You can easily spend a couple of days in this inland region as there’s also the most beautiful town in Oman here – Birkit Al Mawz.

Sink Hole Oman

Wadi Shab – another must-do day trip. It is an incredible gorge and tropical oasis about 2-3 hours from Muscat. While we were in Oman, we went to Wadi Shab to see the Red Bull Cliff Diving finals which was an amazing and really heart-stopping event – YES even for us and not just the divers! Watching these brave cliff diving experts plunge into emerald green pools was surreal. My boyfriend and I had clambered onto the rocks to watch the spectacle. When an event of this nature isn’t taking place, we hear this is the perfect day out to do in a guided group. You can go swimming in these natural pools discovering the depths of the gorge. I’d recommend combining a visit to Wadi Shab with the Sink Hole as it is on the drive back to Muscat. The Sink Hole is a deep crater filled with water and renowned as one of the most beautiful sink holes in the world. It’s just another example of Oman’s natural beauty!

Desert Trip – 1000 Nights Camp – If you have time do a desert night or two… we didn’t have the time in the end but the one that was recommended to us by all of our guides was 1000 Nights Camp – an experience we’ll save for our next trip!