Sun, Souks and Heels – Love Marrakech

“Maybe later 😉 …” we say – again – as we stumble out into the dusty alleys with an ear-to-ear grin having managed to bag another “student” deal in the souks, this time, silver spoons with inset stones for our mothers.

My friend Missy and I are in Marrakech on a girl’s mini-break. We haven’t been here in years… for me it’s been five years and for Missy it’s been more than ten, since she went traveling on her gap year.  Needless to say, our student days are long gone.

We discover this time a whole new Marrakech, one that it’s not as intimidating as when we were here the first time and one that seems more slick and cosmopolitan.  On our first ever visit, we both recall being overwhelmed in every sense – the crowds in the medina, the intensity of the smells (good and very bad), the somewhat pushy and cheeky nature of the locals.  Second time round, it’s so different. We’re at home in Marrakech.

My flight’s arrived early so I take a taxi and whizz into the city.  I’m meeting my friend at our Riad. They say the key to an amazing stay in Marrakech is down to the riad experience, so picking the right one is essential.  Riad Dixneuf La Ksour was everything and more than we could have wanted. On one of the main streets of the medina, the location of this place is unbeatable. We’re in the “Chelsea” of the Medina (if that’s possible) so it feels safe, clean and we’re right in the heart of it and just moments from the main square.  You walk in and it’s a stark contrast to other riads. Forget elaborate and kitsch traditional Arabic style, this is traditionally Moroccan in a different way. It’s incredibly stylish – a careful mix of Moorish and European design with a more minimalist streak. Perfect white walls contrast brilliantly with the colonial-style dark wooden balconies that give the place an elegant and sophisticated vibe. Our favourite feature was the sleek pool which centres the peaceful courtyard where we had breakfast every day.   The service and the food too was incredible and we were so at home here… It was hard to peel away for any souk-shopping.

We spend the afternoons wandering around the souks and the Djema el-Fna square. Our aim on this trip was to simply enjoy soaking up the atmosphere and not have a strict agenda – and so we were happy to just get lost and wander around in a daze every day.  The great thing was that this time we weren’t fazed by the hectic and pushy salesmen in the souks. We were loving it and loving our bartering power as young women.

On one day, in search of an ‘authentic’ experience, my friend was keen for us to have a traditional hammam. We booked ourselves into Heritage Spa, recommended by our Riad hosts. Somehow I really thought it was going to be a relaxing experience (Spa in the name and everything) but this is more of an ordeal than anything else – and you better feel comfortable with your hammam buddy if you’re doing this as a pair. Stark naked, Missy and I are led into a kind of steam room and embarrassingly laid out head-to-head onto marble slabs. Without warning, two large and seemingly gentle ‘mother-like’ Moroccan women come in and start lathering us in mud, soap and god knows what else and then the bad part begins – a painful scrubbing session has us literally skinned to death. Meanwhile we’re also slipping and sliding on the slabs.  This is perhaps the most vulnerable and least attractive I’ve ever felt! We’re then feistily hosed down by the women and quickly wrapped into our robe and showed out to where we can take a breather – finally – and enjoy a hot mint tea to help us recover.

Feeling as smooth as a baby’s bum, we’re ready for our glamorous night out. Earlier in the day, we’d stumbled across Le Jardin. Tucked away in the souks, Le Jardin is a peaceful cafe oasis with palm trees, organic fruit bar, the sound of birds and delicious Moroccan food. It’s got a real traveller’s feel and we could have stayed all day… We get chatting to a fellow traveller – a German pro-mountaineer who’s in Marrakech on his ‘relaxing holiday’. It is a surprise (for us) to hear this considering most people find Marrakech a highly stressful experience.  Granted – his previous ‘holidays’ consisted of mountaineering in Kazakhstan or Afghanistan… not exactly a stroll in the park…  “So anyway we’ll be going to Kosybar later on for cocktails at sunset. See you there if you fancy joining us?”

Sitting in Kosybar that night, watching the non-existent sunset because it had been drizzling most of the afternoon, my friend and I enjoyed Morocco’s finest wines – we’re no wine experts but seriously they are good!  “Sorry I am late, I got caught up in the souks…” To our delight, our new German friend from Le Jardin cafe had come to join us!  We delved into more wine, beers and then decided the three of us would head to Le Comptoir – probably Marrakech’s most chic establishment. It’s in the Hivernage area, outside the Medina. The atmosphere here is; plush, extravagant, belly dancers, bright red velvets and candlelight everywhere. It’s a sexy place and the food, Franco-Moroccan style, is incredible. After dinner we retreated to the upstairs bar which turns into a nightclub and we danced away to Arabic-techno remixes until… we were the last ones there around 5am and had to be kicked out mid-Gin and Tonic.  Naturally, it was now time for a kebab so in our high heels and dressed to the nines, we went to a seedy old kebab place, gradually bringing down our level of glamour to a real minimum…

Having had one of the best nights out of the year, we said goodbye to Marrakech the next day with one promise – we’ll be back again to discover another layer of this mad and diverse city which is always full of surprises.